2021’s Biggest Beauty News Stories
Beauty's biggest news stories at the intersection of politics and pop culture.
Happy New Year! Thank you so much for financially supporting or subscribing to BEAUTY IRL.
This edition is a look at 2021, but I will leave you with one trend you'll see more of in 2022 (and beyond) if you're not already: beauty news. You will continue to see more podcasts including "beauty news segments," more beauty news programming across digital platforms, more infographics that outline beauty news on social media, and more publications realizing that they can cover beauty in far more expansive (and interesting) ways that speak to our human condition versus the popularity of a haircare line pitched by their friend at that PR agency. The good part is that you will see more beauty news coverage from me too, far (far) beyond Substack. The moment I realized I could be more than a reporter, was also the day I realized I didn’t have to be broke while doing what I do. So I’ve been setting my long-term sites on that.
There are so many topics I don't write about because I know that in about 3-4 months, an editor will eventually catch on and commission it. Then, I get to put it in the Media Drops section of this newsletter. I mostly shy away from writing for other publications (although I've been fortunate to write for many editors that I respect and trust), and giving away my brain trust because if I'm going to write for wages that make me feel as though I am writing for free anyway, I might as well do it for this newsletter — one that I make very little off of, too. I’ve made a total of $6,363 since I started this Substack newsletter in July of 2020. If that's the case, I might as well own all of the rights to my work and intellectual property, which I do on this platform.
I don't own beauty news by any stretch of the imagination. However, I do recognize that my work serves as a reference for others in beauty and culture, plus investors. I do believe that by nature of being me, and owning all of my uniqueness and intricacies, I make it special. That's invaluable and influential, and can't be taken from me. I won’t deprive myself of recognizing any of this. I cover beauty from my lens, one that becomes more expansive by the day. I ask that you continue to push me to think further.
Thanks for reading. I don't mean to center myself, but I do mean to document all of this publicly because the last thing I’ll be out here looking like is a clown when we all see beauty news taken more seriously in broader culture conversations (especially when I know everyone’s next steps before they do.) Onward.
- Darian
Watch this special I hosted for Instagram’s 2021 Trend Report!
BEAUTY IRL covers beauty news at the intersection of politics, pop culture, including wellness, self-care, spirituality, athletes, tech, internet culture, gender, sexuality, and music. It was curated with this framing in mind. We categorize and highlight one big story and list a few in bullet points. We conclude by highlighting our favorite beauty artists of 2021!
A special thanks to my former intern Isabel Bekele for partnering with me to write this newsletter.
POLITICS
Policies, laws, and social justice movements that impacted the corporate beauty industry and local businesses.
#StopAsianHate
Stop Asian Hate was sparked in response to racist attacks against Asians in the midst of COVID-19. It was a particular moment of conversation within the beauty industry because of the contributions that Asian beauty rituals — from K-Beauty to J-Beauty and beyond — have made to the beauty world. The appeal of these customs has been marketed and perfectly packaged. We’ve seen new brands take off (some Asian owned, some not) under the guise of customs that originated from Asia. We’ve also seen established brands profit from Asian-inspired beauty rituals and marketing strategies. This moment served as a time for Asian people within beauty to speak for themselves; to tell their own stories and to vocalize how they’ve been treated not only by those in beauty, but within the larger communities they navigate every day. In a beautiful tribute, Byrdie spoke to 23 Asian American editors and influencers on ‘’representation, pride, and self-love,’’ which you can read here.
In a major mishap this year, Citigroup was denied repayment after accidentally wiring an extra $900 million, instead of an intended small interest payment, to Revlon last year. This year a judge ruled that Revlon gets to keep the money, but an appeal by Citigroup is likely.
This summer, the Biden administration, in partnership with UMD, launched their Shots at the Shop initiative in an effort to bring vaccine awareness and implementation to Black communities. As part of the initiative, Shea Moisture launched a $1 million fund to help train more barbershops and salons as public health advocates. I spoke to Dr. Anthony Fauci about the initiative for Refinery29 here.
Also: Olivia Rodrigo released her debut album Sour and became officially the most popular teen among us. Therefore, it only made sense she was called on by the White House (in Chanel) to talk with Dr. Fauci and President Biden about getting young people vaccinated.
The CROWN act, a law that prohibits race-based hair discrimination, was approved in several new states this year, including Connecticut, New Mexico, Delaware, and Nebraska.
Animal testing developments: Here is where we’re at
Mexico became the first country in North America to prohibit the use of animal testing for cosmetic products.
Over 400 beauty brands and companies are asking the EU to uphold animal testing bans as the REACH Regulation threatened current regulations as they stand.
After leaving the EU, the UK considered animal testing for the first time since 1998.
Virginia banned animal testing in the state.
BODY IMAGE & BEAUTY STANDARDS
Both are constantly shifting like a moving target. Here are a few we saw.
The BBL
The rise of discussion around Brazilian butt lifts, quite frankly, could have gone under any of these categories. Ultimately, in 2021 we saw the height of both its popularity and its questioning. TikTok completely exposed the process behind the surgical procedure, whether from the patient’s perspective or their BBF taking care of them. The #BBLeffect trend made it more than a procedure but a mindset and an archetype, one that was also inspired by the Kardashians and the Insta-baddies. With this also came the popularization of fashion literally made for the BBL body. There has been a 77.6% rise of BBLs since 2015, according to a survey done by the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. Now, it’s impossible to talk about BBLs without examining health concerns, and blackfishing. This recent article by i-D on the supposed end of the BBL era tackles all three.
After previously facing allegations that they promoted stereotypes around dark skin tones, Unilever, who owns Dove, dropped the word ‘’normal’’ from its beauty products and banned excessive editing of models’ photos in an effort to create inclusivity.
In a major policy decision by a large social platform, Pinterest banned all weight-loss ads on its platform.
VOICES
Folks that used beauty and their bodies to make political statements or spur wider conversations.
Athletes
Athletes are the beauty influencers of 2021. Several Black women, most notably Sha’Carri Richardson, Naomi Osaka, and Simon Biles, took the center stage of conversation in the sports world and made bold moves to claim their own agency in a world that views them, both as women of color and athletes, as a commodity. Gymnast Sunisa Lee of Team USA won the women's individual all-around gold medal — and became the first Hmong-American to compete in the Olympics — all while wearing white acrylic nails with a nod to the Olympic rings. South African runner Caster Semenya continued to speak out after her denial of a spot in the 2020 Olympics. Throughout 2020 and 2021, we saw the women of the WNBA gain more recognition for their activism around women’s rights, abortion, racism, LGBTQ rights, and voting rights. By nature of their careers, athletes use their bodies to make statements. This year, their decisions on and off the courts shifted perspectives on mental health and gender in a serious way, and deserve recognition for it.
Indya Moore: Actor and model Indya Moore often addressed their fashion and beauty choices on Instagram, in tandem with their own spiritual journey as a trans, non-binary person. Moore’s insistence on showing up as themselves made them a social justice activist, and I would also say, an image activist – a term originally coined by Michaela Angela Davis.
Jillian Mercado: Actor and disability advocate Jillian Mercado made history for starring in one of TV history’s very few sex scenes involving a disabled person on “The L Word: Generation Q,” also featuring Leo Shang.
Chloe Bailey: I felt like we all watched Chloe Bailey blossom this year, because she made the choice to share vulnerable moments from her bedroom, all during the rise of her stardom, around body confidence. What I loved the most is that it wasn’t about whether we approved or not. Read Chloe Bailey Is Doing More Than "Tearing Up"
Charlotte Parlermino: Parlermino’s experience as a beauty brand founder, licensed esthetician, and writer – along with the crucial fact that she is very good at TikTok – made her one of the most influential voices in skincare education this year. I once walked into a facial and was asked if I followed Parlermino and also did slugging. I was not mad!
James Charles: Being a voice does not always mean you were an enjoyable one. Because his platform is huge, James Charles was a voice we could not escape in 2021. After allegations of inappropriate relationships with minors surfaced, YouTube demonetized his channel. He also used Twitter to tussle feathers and add his opinion to topics no one asked him about.
Sports Illustrated had two historic covers this year, both with Leyna Bloom, the first trans woman to appear on the cover, and Megan Thee Stallion, the first rapper to be featured.
Voices we lost this year:
We said goodbye to the iconic actress Cicely Tyson, whose career spanned 70 years. She will always be known for sparking a natural hair movement in the 60s as an acting and natural hair pioneer.
Bell Hooks. Simply put: Hooks wrote about beauty in the ways I like to think about it and view it. She stretched us all.
We tragically lost Ma’Khia Bryant, a sixteen-year-old girl from Ohio who was fatally shot by a police officer. Some of the memories we now know her by are grainy hair tutorials. Read Watching Ma’Khia Bryant Online
In an unexpected death that moved the fashion world, we lost designer Virgil Abloh to a private battle with cancer. Abloh was a visionary who superseded any one title. He deeply understood that making community was the cornerstone of culture. Beautiful clothes, music, and design were simply his medium.
We also lost beauty influencer and Youtuber Mel Thompson who passed at 35 due to a medical condition known as Ehlers-Danlos syndrome.
VIRAL MOMENTS
Beauty on the internet existed outside of the jaw-dropping makeup transformations that went viral.
The Gorilla Glue Fiasco
Tessica Brown, otherwise known as Gorilla Glue Girl, is an interesting case study in virality. In January, Brown had run out of the hairspray she used to slick back her ponytail, and in a hasty moment of desperation, decided to use Gorilla Glue instead. After coming to the water hole, AKA TikTok, to warn others not to make the same mistake, Brown amassed over 37 million views, plenty of unsuccessful tips, and of course the internet’s favorite game: ridicule. Her fame landed her a manager, a merch line, a haircare line, a song, and most importantly, a free surgery in Beverly Hills to remove the glue. Despite all this, Brown says she wishes she had never posted that video, and doesn’t like the name ‘Gorilla Glue Girl’, especially because of its effects on her children. — Isabel
People were so eager for updates on Brown in the moment that I built a live page on Substack. Brown’s situation spurred much debate. I think that’s because it was a look at our own insecurities, and the pressure that a style with no hair out of place, has driven us to, as well. Maybe it wasn’t Gorilla Glue, but a tightly wrapped scarf that caused a headache, or whatever lengths we have gone to for a perfectly slicked back ponytail. — Darian
In the fashion magazine fumble of the year, many were unhappy with Vogue’s lackluster cover of Vice President Kamala Harris. Rather than reflecting the power of her position it came off as overly casual and undone. Though Harris’ team declined to respond, Vogue did to the NYT. I loved this criticism from Washing Post critic Robin Givhan. In a past newsletter I said: “the way Black women are covered in the media needs to be examined rigorously, and often.” (and I stand by it.)
Even though it feels like forever ago, yes, the inauguration was this year, and yes, Michelle Obama’s bouncy blowout did win it. Also, shout out to her stylist Yene Damtew - I love to see fellow Ethiopians winning! — Isabel
This year, Black designer Kerby Jean-Raymond made history by holding the fashion show for his couture line Pyer Moss at the home of the late Madam C.J. Walker, the iconic beauty entrepreneur of the 1900’s, whose home hosted the likes of Zora Neale Hurston and Langston Hughes.
Material Girlllllllll! Saucy Santana’s viral hit turned Tik Tok sound was used this year for people to flaunt their affinity for the finer things in life. But this trend, was also about class and the millennial condition. Having $65,000 in student loan debt, 5 Telfars, an air fryer, a great entry-level job at Google, and an apartment shared with 4 roommates. None of it makes sense but it’s my life, so I’m going to enjoy the little things.
CONVERSATIONS
Conversations that spoke to our values and perspectives.
Red Table Talk
Red Table Talk facilitated the best beauty, pop culture, politics, wellness conversations of the year because they were complex, complicated, honest and there were no winners — just perspectives and lived experiences. Hosts Jada Pinkett Smith, Adrienne “Gammy” Banfield-Norris, and Willow Smith talked about gut health, the dangers of BBLs, the freedom of going bald, wellness with Queen Afua, sex with Gwenyth Paltrow, and polyamory, all in 2021. Watch season 4 and/or read my NYT profile on Banfield-Norris, We All Need a Gammy in Our Lives Right Now
Sunscreen was the beauty topic of conversation this year, with a push to… use it. “Sunscreen has turned into more than just a required step for healthy skin. It’s now seen as the required elements of a healthy lifestyle.” Read the rest: Beauty’s Latest Villain: Sunscreen
The Cutting Room Floor + Man Repeller: Recho Omondi, designer and podcast host, held a viral conversation with former Man Repeller founder Leandra Medine Cohen in what became one of the most fascinating conversations of the year.
Monique & bonnets: internet auntie Mo’Nique took to Instagram to share some unsolicited advice, and chastised women for leaving the house in bonnets and sleepwear, leading to both praise and backlash. Read my story for Allure: Let Black Women Wear Their Bonnets Whenever They Want
The QAnon conspiracy theories divided the wellness community this year.
HOLLYWOOD
Beauty and images that also made a statement, spoke to an era, sparked controversy, or symbolized change. (Impossible to include them all, but here are a few!)
South Korea’s Hallyuwood
I thought the explosion of popularity we saw around South Korean films and television in the U.S. brought up feelings around why, specifically in the U.S., it took us so long to embrace the industry and to understand that “the Korean screen industry is very diverse,” as Dr. Brain director Kim Jee-woon puts it. On TikTok, Squid Game-inspired makeup took off and the show also exposed us to more Korean beauty trends. It’s easier, now more than ever, to see how racist Hollywood standards have kept global stories from reaching success in the U.S., and why #OscarsSoWhite is not only about Black representation, but global representation. My hope is that we all become more comfortable seeing ourselves in stories where our skin color or customs aren’t directly reflected back to us.
Mia Neal and Jamika Wilson, the stylists of ‘’Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom,’’ made history when they became the first Black women to be nominated for an Academy Award in the hairstyle and makeup category.
The Met Gala attracted some controversial looks this year, but actress Yara Shahidi stood out in her pin curls and strapless dress, paying homage to activist Josephine Baker. And AOC’s “Tax The Rich,” dress, designed by creator of the 15% Pledge Aurora James, certainly took the conversation cake.
2021 beauty moments in TV
Insecure ends: The costuming (fashion!!!), music, cinematography, and plots rooted in Black L.A. made Insecure a family affair on Twitter. Not to mention, natural hairstyles were at the forefront of the show.
Legendary: The HBO Max voguing competition was a masterclass on what it takes to pull off a look if you want to compete in the ballroom scene. Read this interview with head of makeup La Sonya Gunter.
Ziwe: Comedian Ziwe Fumudoh got her own show on Showtime this year, in which she interviews different pop culture personalities and teeters the line between entertainment and discomfort. A stand out was her ‘Beauty Standards’ episode, where she spoke with RHONY’s Eboni K. Williams about the topic and interracial dating with Rachel Lindsay of The Bachelor.
Nine Perfect Strangers: If there’s one thing Nicole Kidman is going to do, it’s kill the role of a mysterious, slightly suspicious white lady. The series follows a group who have been led to believe they’re going on a wellness retreat. In reality, they end up being drugged as a part of an experiential plan. Think a cross between The White Lotus, Get Out, and… Goop? It’s an especially interesting watch when considering the rise of conspiracy in the wellness space this year.
Sex Education: Season 3 of Sex Education spurred conversation this year as one of the only shows to actually show dimensional disabled characters- specifically in their sex scenes with disabled actor George Robinson, who plays Isaac.
Sexy Beasts: This Netflix dating series centered around prosthetics makeup pushed those involved to look beyond… looks.
2021 beauty moments in film
House of Gucci: the long-awaited film on the infamous fashion house was released to mixed reviews this year, but it’s worth checking out to see Lady Gaga portray the campy fashion and beauty of the 60’s.
In The Heights: this film by Hamilton creator Lin Manuel Miranda brought up conversations about colorism in the Latinx community because it barely featured any Afro Latinos.
Last Night in Soho: another film that pays homage to 60’s fashion and beauty looks, but this time portrayed by Thomasin McKenzie (from The Queen’s Gambit) as a fashion student in Soho, London.
MUSIC VIDEOS
Examining both symbolism and beauty in a genre female artists dominated.
Cardi B
Cardi B is always a reminder that beauty is grueling work. In no Cardi video — whether it be her song or a feature — is the hair, makeup, and nails an afterthought or secondary to the fashion. They were just as detailed, and as much of the main attraction, as her costuming. In “Up,” each scene feels like a new art direction that in and of itself requiresd new nail color or adornments, a new wig (like talking dolls heads), and a new eyeshadow design. She often documented this work through the BTS videos she’s released with some of her videos. In Lizzo’s hit song “Rumors,” we see a pregnant Cardi. Lizzo wears a hair full of braids, 43 1/2 feet long according to hairstylist Shelby Swain who stated it took “80 hours, 400 packs of Kanekalon, 17 of LA’s finest braiders.” In “Wild Side” with Normani, Cardi is butt naked, and the nails are the main attraction. Ultimately I think we’ll look back and remember how Cardi took the relevancy of music videos to task, along with her collaborators. We’ll say that she set a new precedent for beauty and fashion through music videos.
“Peng Black Girls” by ENNY feat. Amia Brave: An ode to the beauty of Black women, particularly dark skin women, featuring UK rapper ENNY’s Nigerian family.
“Woman” by Doja Cat: Two words: Feminine Divine. Ultimately Doja takes on the portrayal of different goddesses and spirits that represent the feminine divine in goddess form.
“Linda” by Tokicsha x Rosalia. With an opening scene in the beauty salon, and the visibility of women AND femmes in this video makes it *chef’s kiss* and lyrics dripping in bi sexuality, or just the “hetero” girl kissing her homie.
“MONTERO” (Call Me By Your Name) by Lil Nas X. It was hard to choose which Lil Nas video should take the cake; his entire existence as an openly gay Black pop star makes him political and bombshell to queer folks who have never felt they could fully be themselves in front of others. But the top choice is MONTERO; a fantasy world where Lil Nas X is fit to be himself, and takes on multiple personalities through hair and costuming, including a demon with red hot cornrows. #lol
“Way 2 Sexy” by Drake ft Future: These two are known to love playing dress-up with each other when they collaborate. This time men of different eras and situations; Backstreet Boys, Prince, Michael Jackson, and even Rambo. And I have to find a way to address Drake’s menace of a haircut: the heart shape line up.
"I am not a woman, I'm a god" by Halsey: Halsey, who also has a makeup line, released their fourth album, ‘If I Can’t Have Love, I Want Power’ and addresses “the idea that me as a sexual being and my body as a vessel and gift to my child are two concepts that can co-exist peacefully and powerfully.” Their album art was revealed at The Met in New York City and depicts them in medieval clothing, a theme tied to Halsey’s depiction of the Madonna and Child.
Notable mention: Glossier’s product placement on the Instagram live battle series Verzuz. ReadGlossier Keeps Popping Up in Black Cultural Spaces
TECH
2021 brought plenty of crossovers in the beauty and tech space. Here are the highlights.
The modern QVC(s)?
In 2021, big tech wants a slice of the merchandising pie. Companies like Youtube, Amazon, Facebook, and IG (and Meta at large) all took to their own versions of live shopping streaming events, often with the help of the creators on these platforms.
Gaming:
Crypto:
Givenchy Parfums launched an NFT in support of the LGBTQIA+ cause.
E.LF. turned their best selling products into NFTs that customers could purchase on the crypto platform Bitski.
Tik Tok announced they’re going to start selling top viral videos for NFTs.
This year, I put an NFT behind my Twitter thread of Black girls in front of the Mona Lisa, which is all about beauty and representation. You can check out the story behind the NFT here.
Innovation:
Dermalogica built a virtual reality (VR) e-commerce storefront, using it to showcase its newest products.
LVMH teamed up with Google Cloud to develop new cloud artificial intelligence solutions that will help with trend forecasting.
Pinterest created a hair pattern search tool that enables users to refine hair searches by 6 different hair patterns: protective, coily, curly, wavy, straight, and shaved/bald.
INDUSTRY SHIFTS
Some topline industry news to take note of.
Beautycon
Essence Ventures acquired Beautycon Media out of foreclosure. We didn’t really talk about the fact that Beautycon disappeared. Ticket holders were refunded, but not without hiccups, and there was no official statement that Beautycon wasn’t taking place in 2020. We didn’t hear a true update until it was announced in September of 2021 that Essence Ventures acquired Beautycon. Its continuation is a big deal because in the midst of all of the drama, questions, and former employees and businesses that were emotionally and financially harmed by the company, this fact stands: Beautycon is an important, diverse space. It’s a place (outside of award shows) you’ll see A-list celebs, pop stars, and beauty influencers rubbing shoulders in one place. It speaks to the nature of beauty and culture. So I am really happy to know it will continue in some way.
Sephora in Kohl’s, Thirteen Lune in J.C. Penney, and Ulta in Target; we saw beauty retailers introduced into spaces, or do musical chairs.
Beauty enters streetwear: If you read BEAUTY IRL in 2021, you know this was a big one. Megan Thee Stallion x Revlon on Stock X, about-face x Dickies, KNC x Bathing Ape, Florence by Mills x Converse sneakers, the list truly goes on.
Major Acquisitions & Closures
Becca Cosmetics is out of business, but Smashbox will continue two of its iconic products.
Estee Lauder increased its ownership in Deciem.
Oreveon acquires BareMinerals, Laura Mercier, and Buxom from Shiseido.
BEAUTY IRL’s Favorite Beauty Artists of 2021
(who are also part of the BEAUTY IRL community)
HAIR: Naeema Lafond, whose continued creativity and imagination kept us at the edges of our seats.
NAILS: Gracie J, for her innovation with TENX press-on nails and maintenance kit, plus clever content that kept us guessing (and laughing).
MAKE UP: Michela Wariebi, for being a needed voice of reason in the debate around beauty artists and their rates.
this was masterful tbh.